Embracing “Slow Travel”
In the last blog we introduced the local products of Southern Tuscany, and ways to bring the tastes of Italy to us until we can visit once again. Let’s visit another equally charming area of Tuscany, the less touristed southeast region of Chianti. I suggest approaching this area with a slower pace, immersing yourself in the countryside, and spending time with the warm and generous people who take pleasure in sharing the beauty of their culture and country with you.
Hotel: Set in the timeless Tuscan landscape that typifies this lovely area of Chianti, Borgo San Felice, an 8th century Tuscan village was converted into a 5 * Relais & Châteaux establishment in 1992. Quaint cobbled lanes link a cluster of stone buildings that have been cleverly converted into an elegant hotel. The guest rooms exude a contemporary rustic style. Expect bright rugs on dark oak floors, smart country-style furnishings, and enveloping beds made up with the finest Egyptian cotton sheets. Guests can relax by the large scenic pool, enjoy a game of tennis, luxuriate in the spa, and feast in one of the two restaurants serving local cuisine.
A Day in Chianti
8am: Awake to a view of vineyards, cypresses, olive groves and distant church bells, reminding you that you are in the heart of the Chianti Classico. After a quiet stroll through the hotel’s vineyard, enjoy a sumptuous breakfast replete with Zero Kilometer (literally “no distance”) products sourced from the hotel’s property and nearby producers.
9:30: Stefano, your local English-speaking driver and connoisseur of all things Tuscan, will be your private guide for the day. Sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery as you are transported to an “off the beaten track” immersive food and wine experience.
Into the Vineyards: Begin your day visiting one of the local wineries located in the world-renowned Chianti Classico region. I always prefer to explore smaller, family run wineries in Italy, but Fattoria La Lama may be the smallest I have ever visited. Nestled in the hills of the tiny hamlet of San Gusmè, La Lama is a true “Mom and Pop” winery, tended to by members of the Campani family for the past 50 years. Before enjoying a Tuscan country meal al fresco on the panoramic terrace, stroll with a member of the family through the vineyards, and sample absolutely delicious and well-priced wines in their quaint stone cellar. La Lama’s wine is not found outside of Italy, so be sure ship some home. You will be so happy that you did!
Into the Olive Groves? The rest of the afternoon can be tailored to your personal tastes. A visit can be arranged to a small medieval village, a visit to the nearby Castello di Brolio, known for the invention of Chianti wine, or my favorite, a stop at a traditional olive oil mill run by a local family committed to producing and sharing the culture of olive oil cultivation. Tour the olive grove, learn about ancient production methods and sample the different oils. This is a great occasion to learn how to taste freshly pressed olive oil and to understand the differences between a top-quality traditional production and the massive industrial products whose bottles are unfortunately available in supermarkets all over the of the world. And, YES, they, too, will ship to your home!
After a long, but relaxing day, it’s just short ride back to your hotel. Upon your return, let yourself be carried away by the beauty of the landscape and peacefulness surrounding Borgo San Felice. Engage in a slow-flow yoga class, or perhaps a dip in the pool, followed by a luxurious olive oil massage in the hotel’s spa located in the ancient village’s former olive press.
Evening: Tonight you can could remain at your hotel and enjoy a lovely dinner at one of Borgo San Felice’s two restaurants. However, I suggest securing a late reservation at the La Bottega del Trenta located in the nearby 8th century village of Villa a Sesta. To arrive, take the twisting road up into the hills dotted with tiny hamlets, sprawling vineyards, and impeccable views in all directions. In one corner of the village, almost hidden on the edge of a vineyard, you’ll find a quaint farmhouse, an unlikely but charming location for One Star Michelin Restaurant. The restaurant is quite small, two stone rooms with a total of about 15 tables. On warmer evenings, dinner is also served on the veranda outside. The daily changing menu focuses on the rich bounty of local farm to table ingredients, veal, pheasant and lamb, vegetables and pasta and truffles, and an impressive list of local wines, all painstakingly introduced to you by the owner and chef, the lovely Helene’. Dosing off on your short drive home, reflect on your day and wonder if you have momentarily stepped outside of time, immersed in a dream filled with amazing food, breathtaking scenery, and relaxing conversations.
Sadly, we are not able to travel to Italy quite yet, however, we can still get a dose of Italian culture and glimpse the beauty of the countryside by immersing ourselves in books and movies set in the Italian countryside. Set up your home cinema and watch a film set in the Bel Paese.